I ♥ TGM

~After touring Strahov and Brevnov monasteries, my seminar group disbanded for the day. I joined a group headed for the nearby Prague Castle, the seat of the executive branch of the Czech government and one of the major tourist attractions of Prague. Rather than a single building, Prague Castle is in fact a complex of several interconnected buildings, including a palace, three churches, royal stables, a monastery, and manicured gardens.

Just outside of the castle, in the appropriately-named Castle Square, is this famous statue of Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk, the first president of Czechoslovakia. An immensely popular man and important historical figure in the Czech Republic, Masaryk is colloquially known by the initials "TGM", in the same way that Americans refer to President Franklin Roosevelt as FDR or Kennedy as JFK. In some Prague gift shops, I saw T-shirts with pictures of Masaryk marked, "I ♥ TGM".

By the way, don't forget that March 7th is TGM Day!

^ The main gate into the castle. Let's take a closer look at parts of this image:

^ The gate into the castle off of Castle Square is adorned with two sculptures of Fighting Greek Titans (which, by the way, would be a great name for either a rock band or a college football team). The sculptures were made by Ignac Frantisek Platzer in 1770.

^ The gate is flanked by two ceremonial guards. Like the guards at the gate of Buckingham Palace, the Czech guards must remain absolutely motionless throughout their one-hour shifts. I was at the gate during the changing of the guard ceremony, where the master-at-arms escorted the next guards out and relieved the previous guards. Just before the new guards took up their positions, they faced the interior of their guard huts and jumped around a bit, rubbing their faces, because of course they aren't allowed to move around at all for the next hour. The guard who relieved the above soldier was wisely wearing sunglasses.

Immediately upon entering the castle complex, visitors are confronted by the towering bulk of the Cathedral of St. Vitus, the largest church in Prague. Its construction began in 1344 on the order of Charles IV, but it wasn't finished and properly consecrated until 1929 (!). Even in its unfinished state, it was and remains the most important church in Prague, and was the site of royal coronations. Many Bohemian monarchs are buried the tombs below the cathedral.

Despite its name, the cathedral is dedicated to not one but three saints: St. Vitus, St. Wenceslas, and St. Adalbert. Note the large, circular window in the center of the above image; this is the gigantic stained-glass Rose Window.

There was a small fee to enter the cathedral, which presumably goes towards the massive maintenance costs that such a building requires.

^ Czech out the front doors of the cathedral. They must have taken forever to make.

^ A closer look at the frieze above the main door to the cathedral. Impressive.

^ This gargoyle stands watch over the main doors.

^ If you thought the cathedral looked big on the outside, take a look at the interior. I felt like an ant crawling around in a giant's house.

^ Almost every window consists of beautiful stained glass.

^ Some more stained glass, from the front of the cathedral over the altar.

^ I may be wrong, but this doesn't look like stained glass to me. I think it's painted glass, but it looks, if anything, better than the stained glass.

^ Golden shrines and artwork cover every niche of the building. The amount of wealth that went into the construction and outfitting of this cathedral boggles the mind.

^ Yet another niche of gilded religious artwork.

^ This unusual silver sculpture occupies a large area on the left side of the cathedral.

^ Near the previous sculpture, this silver angel helps hold up a tapestry.

^ This booth was (is?) used by priests at the cathedral to deliver homilies to the faithful below.

^ The Chapel of St. Wenceslas, located in a walled-off sub-section of the cathedral. Dating to the 14th century, the Chapel is the religious focus of the entire cathedral. The artwork on the walls depict the Passion of Christ cycle, while a nearby locked and guarded door leads to the (publicly inaccessible) Bohemian Crown Jewels used in coronations. I did not get to see the Jewels; in fact, they have been on display only nine times in the twentieth century. They are kept in a septuply-locked safe whose seven keys are held by top government officials.

^ This massive organ dwarfs that of Zlata Koruna Monastery.

After being awed by overwhelmingly large and ornate religious art, I needed a break. That's when I spotted the fellow on the left, perched in a dark corner of the cathedral. In my opinion, he's got the right idea: sure, the cathedral is pretty and all, but after seeing it, what you really need is a drink. Preferably, something strong.




Coming next: the Public Library of Liberec, and a walk through the "Bohemian Paradise" forest of Prachov. Stay tuned to Debonair David!